FRANCIS CUTHBERT, DAFTMILL
ROBUST, OILY, FENNEL
Farmer and distiller Francis Cuthbert is the co-founder of Daftmill distillery in Fife. Spirit first ran from its stills as long ago as 2005, but the inaugural release of its single malt only came earlier this month.
Francis Cuthbert reckons all Scotsmen have it in them to make whisky
‘I’m a farmer who moonlights as a distiller, so if you come to the distillery, don’t expect a professional tour. It’s just me talking about what we’ve done and what we do now.
‘We grow all the barley we use in the distillery and lots more besides. Our biggest customer is Edrington for Highland Park and Macallan. We send the malt we keep for ourselves to Crisp Maltings in Alloa for malting.
‘We send 100 tonnes at a time and get 80 back. They guarantee it’s our malt. We only keep back around 10% of what we grow.
‘In 2005/6, when we started distilling, we used Chariot barley, grown next to the farm and distillery. Since then, we’ve grown Optic, Publican and currently Concerto. Next year, we’ll probably opt for Laureate.
‘We’ve just ordered a new mill and silo, which means we can do away with the wheelie bins we currently use to move the grist and store it. We’re going to pay for it with all the money we make from our inaugural release!
‘We stop and start up distilling a lot. It really is a case of fitting the whisky-making into the farming year, just like they used to do in days gone by. We distil during July and August, and then November to February, though by no means all the time in those months because there are other things on the farm to do.
‘On average, we fill around 100 casks per year, 90% of which are first-fill Bourbon barrels, plus some Sherry hogsheads and butts.
Seasonal stills: Whisky production at Daftmill has to fit around the farming calendar
‘We’re looking for a light, fruity, classic Lowland style of whisky, so we get nice clear wort from our mash tun and go for long fermentations. When we distil, we do it slowly and take a narrow cut. We only do one run per day.
‘We spend most money on fuel and casks. Our original idea was to add value to our barley, which used to sell for around £70 per tonne, by making whisky, but the cardboard tubes for the bottles effectively cost more than the barley!
‘When it comes to the distilling there are three of us doing it: I, myself and me. Who taught me? I think it’s just genetic. All Scotsmen have it in them to make whisky.
‘I read quite a bit about the subject, and lots of people gave us advice when we were starting out, and I can’t remember which advice we ignored and which we took now.
‘We did employ consultants and a retired distillery manager, John MacDougall, plus an engineer who had been involved in building Kininvie distillery for William Grant. We also took advice from the late Dr Jim Swan and used Tatlock & Thomson here in Fife for analytical purposes.
‘As a family, we had long been into our whisky, and we talked about making our own. The more we drank, the better the idea sounded. Apart from growing barley, we had redundant farm buildings we could use.
Francis Cuthbert was keen not to release Daftmill’s first whisky until it was ready
‘It became something of a joke, but finally we decided we should actually go for it. Daftmill and Kilchoman on Islay started producing within a fortnight of each other, but they made more spirit last year than we have in 12 years.
‘We farm 1,000 acres, a mixture of arable and cattle, and my brother Ian and nephew John run our quarry business. Our grandfather came here to farm as a tenant and we got the chance to buy the place in 1984.
‘Another farm we have just down the road used to belong to the Haig family, Fife’s great distilling dynasty. The old house was pulled down in the 1950s, but apparently Colonel Haig had two barrels built into the wall of it, so he always had plenty of whisky for himself and his guests.
‘Everyone asks why we waited so long before we bottled our whisky, and the simple answer is: I didn’t think it was ready. Also, there wasn’t any great pressure on us to do so. We have pretty low overheads and no staffing costs, so we could afford to wait.
‘Then we were approached by Berry Bros to release a bottling, and I like the whiskies Doug [McIvor, the company’s spirits manager] does for them, and was keen on the idea of a new distillery, a new single malt, partnering with a really historic firm with such great heritage.
‘So we’ve launched the 12-year-old – just 250 bottles at cask strength from three casks to start with – and I think the whisky will be even better with more time.’
DAFTMILL SET TO RELEASE FIRST WHISKY
Lowland single malt distillery Daftmill is poised to release its first Scotch whisky in 2018, well over a decade after it began distilling.
Old techniques: Daftmill has revived the tradition of distilling during the farm’s quiet periods
The distillery was founded in 2005 by brothers Francis and Ian Cuthbert in an old mill on the family farm near Cupar in Fife, but is yet to release any whisky 12 years later.
Now Daftmill has signed a global distribution agreement with wine and spirits merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, signalling its intention to make its first release in the near future.
Francis Cuthbert told Scotchwhisky.com that the first Daftmill whisky would ‘probably’ go on sale during 2018, but added: ‘Before that happens, we need to sort out a bottle, a label and probably a lot of other stuff.’
Current plans involve an inaugural release of a single malt marrying two ‘complementary’ casks distilled in 2005, plus four annual single cask bottlings and two 12-year-old whiskies at 46% abv – one summer distillation and one winter distillation.
Daftmill is one of a burgeoning number of ‘single estate’ distilleries, growing all the barley needed for whisky production on the estate.
Distillation takes place during the agricultural ‘off-season’, covering two months in summer and two months in winter in a traditional practice not seen in Scotland since the 19th century. Only about 100 casks are filled each year.
‘What I find so appealing about Daftmill is their unique and traditional seasonal production cycle, which is led by Francis’ quiet periods on the farm,’ said Doug McIvor, reserve spirits manager at Berry Bros & Rudd.
‘I also believe their sole use of the estate’s barley gives Daftmill’s whisky a real sense of terroir and true provenance. I’m confident that the spirit’s subtle Lowland charm will put Daftmill (and Fife) firmly on the whisky map.’
DAFTMILL INAUGURAL RELEASE TO BE BALLOTED
The first bottles of Daftmill distillery’s inaugural single malt are to be sold via a ballot, with bottles allocated to lucky individuals at random.
Daftmill Inaugural Release single malt
First fill: Daftmill’s Inaugural Release contains some of the first whisky distilled at the Lowland site
Scotch fans looking to buy one of only 250 bottles of Daftmill Inaugural Release, distilled in 2005, the distillery’s first year of operation, will need to register interest on distributor Berry Bros. & Rudd's website.
The ballot closes at 5pm on Thursday 10 May, after which 250 individuals will be selected at random and given the opportunity to purchase a 70cl bottle of Inaugural Release for £210.
A further 250 bottles will be released to specialist UK retailers in early June, ahead of the launch of Daftmill Summer Release on 22 June (which will retail for £95) and the Daftmill Winter Release coming later this year.
Francis Cuthbert, co-founder of Daftmill distillery, said: ‘Our unhurried methods of distillation have meant we can only produce around 100 casks of whisky a year.
‘The launch of the Inaugural Release will also be the first chance customers have to see the new label and packaging. We hope the clean, simple and honest design reflects our approach to production.’
Daftmill Inaugural Release is a 12-year-old single malt produced using Chariot barley grown on the Daftmill family farm.
It has been matured in first-fill ex-Bourbon barrels from Heaven Hill distillery and bottled at a cask strength of 55.8% abv.
Daftmill began distilling in 2005, after brothers Francis and Ian Cuthbert were granted permission in 2002 to convert a mill on their farm into a working distillery.
Alongside the winter and summer bottlings, the Cuthberts have also spoken of plans to release four annual single cask bottlings each year.
This is one of the very few (conceivably the only) truly self-sufficient distillery in Scotland.
The Cuthbert brothers who own the site have long grown malting barley. These days a small percentage of the crop (around 100 tons) is diverted for their own use. The process water comes from their own artesian well, and the draff produced after mashing is then fed to their prize beef herd.
Only 20,000 litres is produced during two, three month seasons, one starting after the end of the busy spring period on the farm and stopping before harvest, the other during the fallow winter period between November and February.
These sixth-generation farmers reckon that they are only the third family to have farmed Daftmill in 1,000 years of existence, but it was only in 2003 that the idea of whisky making began to form in the minds of Francis Cuthbert and his brother Ian. They converted three of their buildings into a distillery in 2003 and were granted their licence two years later, making it the first member of the now burgeoning small-scale distilling movement in Scotland.
None of the maturing stock has yet been released, though samples from casks show that it is mature, balanced with a gentle herbal note, and very much ready for sale.
Capacity 65.000 Ltrs
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Shell and tube
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Indirect steam heating
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Crisp Malt of Alloa malts own barley
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Dunnage on site
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Francis and Ian Cuthbert
2003 - present
DAFTMILL IS SITUATED IN THE HOWE OF FIFE NEAR TO THE BOW OF FIFE. PART OF THE PITLAIR ESTATE, IT SITS IN THE FERTILE VALLEY OF THE RIVER EDEN IN THE PARISH OF COLLESSIE.
The Barony of Pitlair at one time covered large areas of Fife. Although now much reduced people have been living and farming here for thousands of years. Just along the road is a Pictish standing stone from the 6th or 7th century with carving depicting a naked warrior with spear and large shield – probably one of the lads the Romans were wary of!
Daftmill from Falkland Palace
Alfred Barnard the famous Victorian whisky writer whilst travelling through Fife to Auchtermuchty Distillery in 1865 wrote this of the countryside:
“After leaving Kirkcaldy we lost sight of the busy Forth and the country began to assume a character that bespoke a fertile soil and a high state of cultivation. The country slopes gently from the Ochils to the River Eden but the East Lomond forms the finest object in the surrounding landscape. It is a regular and beautiful mountain, 1650 feet high, with a cairn on the top. As we proceed along we see in the distance Falkland Palace where the Royal Family of Scotland resided up to the time of Charles II. It was this palace that the infamous Rob Roy garrisoned in 1615 with a party of Macgregors, when he lay the whole district under contribution. As we diverge from the main line the track is through a rich and well-cultivated plain, but towards the north it rises to hills which are covered with heath and through this plain runs the Eden – Where flows the cool, unsullied stream, deep sheltered fom the scorching beam.”
The young boy in this photograph is thought to be Sir William Giles Newsom Walker at 9 years old. This photograph dates from 1914.
The Walker Family
Archaeologists have found evidence of late Neolithic to early Bronze Age tools – pottery shards that suggest tribesmen made the hills and marshes around Collessie their home and hunting grounds long before the Picts came to this area.
In the reign of Alexander III (1249-1285) the Kynloch family had charter to a mill and lands in the neighbourhood. They married into the Sandilands family and Pitlair passed to James Sandiland and Marrgret Kynloch. The Sandilands owned Pitlair until James Sandiland was created Lord Abercrombie and sold his estates in Fife in 1649.
By 1701 the Walker family was in Daftmill and Pitlair, as evidenced by James Walker petitioning the King, along with most other local landowners, to stand down the army so that the benefits of the peace could be enjoyed.
Our family bought Pitlair Estate including Daftmill in 1984 from Sir William Walker; before that we were tenants of the Walker family.
It is entirely possible that we are only the third family to own this land in the last 1000 years!
2005 Inaugural Release
DAFTMILL 2005 INAUGURAL RELEASE
TITLE Daftmill 2005 Inaugural Release
AGE 12 Years Old
CASK TYPE 1st fill Bourbon
CASK NUMBER(S) 05/02, 05/03, 05/07
NUMBER OF BOTTLES 629
STRENGTH 55.8% Vol.
Daftmill is a farm distillery. Owned and operated by the Cuthbert family, it only runs in the farm’s quiet periods; mid-summer and winter, sometimes producing as few as 100 casks per year. When not distilling, Francis Cuthbert looks after the estate, growing the malting barley used to make this Lowland whisky.
Harvested from the farm’s Dam Park and Curling Pond fields on 31st August 2004, the Chariot barley was among the last to be malted in Fife by Robert Kilgour & Co before they closed.
This is Daftmill’s first bottling, drawn from the first casks, from the Kingdom of Fife’s first new distillery for more than 100 years. It’s rare. Rarer (as Francis puts it) than rocking horse shit.
Daftmill is a family farm situated in the Howe of Fife. Our main enterprises are growing cereals, mainly malting barley, rearing beef cattle and growing potatoes. The farm also produces carrots and broccoli.
In June 2003 we applied for planning permission to convert the old mill buildings into a distillery. It took most of 2004 and 2005 to repair the buildings and install all the equipment. By St Andrews day 2005 when we received our licence from Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs we were ready to start distilling.
Other than the Stills and the mash tun which came from coppersmiths Forsyths in Rothes all the other equipment and work to convert the buildings and create the distillery was supplied by local craftsmen from around the Cupar area.
In the distillery we use the barley that we grow on the farm and water from our own artesian well to make our whisky.
The distillery operates in harmony with the farm. The farm grows the barley then after it is mashed in the spent grains or draff provide a nutritious protein rich feed for the cattle. The pot ale and spentlees , that’s the left overs from the distillation are stored in a large tank on the farm then sprayed onto the grass or barley stubble as a fertiliser. The warm water that has been used to cool the stills is either kept to be used for the next mash or it is pumped into the duck pond where any heat is lost. It also helps stop the pond from freezing over in the Winter.
The distillery has to operate on a seasonal basis around the farming calendar. During the winter months when things are not so busy on the farm we make whisky but by spring time we need to get the barley sown, potatoes planted and cattle out to grass so the distillery falls silent. In mid-summer there is a lull farm work again and we distil in June and July before shutting down again for harvest time. Operating like this was once the norm but has not been seen in Scotland for the last 100 years.
IN 2003 BROTHERS FRANCIS AND IAN CUTHBERT APPLIED FOR PLANNING PERMISSION TO CONVERT THE OLD MILL INTO A DISTILLERY.
We tried to ensure that the project was an entirely local affair and were keen to see that all the work was carried out, where possible, by people living close by to the farm. Apart from the copper stills, which were made in Rothes, we ensured all the work has been carried out by people within a five mile radius of the farm.
The license to distil was granted by Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs on St Andrews Day 2005 and the first whisky was produced on 16th December 2005, making Daftmill the newest distillery to open in Scotland at that time.
THE ANGELS’ SHARE
Scotch whisky has to be at least three years old before it can be sold. At Daftmill we anticipate that our whisky will be at least 10 years old before coming to market.
During this time it stays in the bond where every day some of the alcohol evaporates, reducing the strength of the whisky and making it more mellow.
This evaporated alcohol is known as the “angels’ share”.
The arrival of the copper stillsDaftmill StillsPatience is a virtueWe use bourbon casks from Heavenhill Distillery in Kentucky“uisge beatha” - the water of life, runs through the spirit safeApart from the stills themselves, which were made on Speyside, everything else was sourced locally.The distillery todayThe distillery today
THE WATER TOWER
People often remark on our water tower which stands out and is a local landmark.
Family history has it that the tower was built by a Dutch architect/engineer who was across here for the building of the Tay Rail Bridge hence the Dutch appearance. The Walker family who owned the estate at that time were investors in the railway so it is possible.
The Tower has a large water tank at the top which provides the head to supply our water by gravity. The water from the artesian well used to be pumped up to the tower with a wind pump we now use an electric submersible pump.
The tower has had a bit of a face lift recently with repairs to the roof and a fresh coat of paint on the exterior. It is lasting well for being over 100 years old.
Obviously our water supply is very important to us so it pays to look after it.